Landing from the north at Falcone-Borsellino airport in Punta Raisi, on certain days in January or February, is an unforgettable experience. The bare rocky mountains that dominate the area are bright pink; the sea is cobalt blue, where the airport lies like a giant raft; the sky is a deep blue and the surrounding countryside emerald green. However, in the summertime, when the dry African heat, often brought by the `scirocco' wind, wraps around you, it is better to surrender than resist.

Those who have chosen to go on holiday to western Sicily, can head towards Trapani, the furthest western point, by bus or car along the Palermo-Mazara del Vallo highway, lined with all shades of red and white oleanders, with viaducts from where you can see the sea in the distance. Some of these viaducts are spectacular, like the one passing by the Castello di Calatubo in the Alcamo area, or the one from which one glimpses the temple of Segesta set in hills.

At such a distance it looks like a toy lost in the grass, pink in the morning and yellow ochre in the afternoon, but seen from a short distance it is one of the most majestic and impressive ancient monuments, with sturdy Doric columns on a cyclopean base that still supports the architrave and two pediments. On the opposite rock, the steep wide semicircular steps of the theatre, where Greek and Latin plays are performed, in this breathtaking panorama. Going inland, a few minutes from Segesta, it is just the thing to stop off in Alcamo, an important farming town at the foot of mount Bonifato; here the Arab and medieval origins are very much evident in the web of alleys that forms the layout of the city centre. Calatafimi is full of the memories of Garibaldi, while going down the coast you meet Castellammare del Golfo, the first large coastal town, that has not been. exploited as a tourist centre because farming has prevailed. From the viewing area, looking down over the gulf, one can admire the gorgeous little harbour, with the castle at the far end of the promontory and, in late August, the water born procession during which thousands of floating night-lights are scattered across the water to honour the Madonna del Soccorso. Further along the coast is the hamlet of Scopello - (marvellous rocky beaches and coves), that marks the beginning of the 1,700 ha Zingaro Nature Reserve, established in 1981 in order to preserve the environment and species risking extinction. From here, heading towards Trapani along the coast, one can see the old tonnare, buildings where fishermen kept tuna fishing equipment and boats, and where tuna was processed.
This is mattanza country, an archaic and bloody tuna fishing ritual that used to take place in the spring, accompanied with songs that have remained unchanged for centuries. After Scopello, with its baglio (courtyard) full of sweet smelling flowers, other examples of industrial archaeology are: the tonnara del Secco in San Vito Lo Capo (a small fishing village that has kept its original identity intact, even though it is becoming touristy), the tonnara di Bonagia, that has been converted into elegant living quarters and, lastly, the large tonnara Florio in Favignana, in the Egadi islands. For those who like exotic food, not to be missed is the couscous, which is accompanied with fish soup here, making an irresistible spicy delicacy. Leaving the coast and going up San Giuliano mountain, you meet Erice.


The route is surprisingly panoramic, made of large hairpin bends, reaching 800 m a.s.l. As the temperature changes, the vegetation changes becoming woody close to the inhabited areas, and often in the summer time the mountain top is likely to be surrounded in a magical mist. Erice is an extraordinary place, a well preserved medieval town, not only in its layout but also in its ambience: paved and cobbled alleys, churches and convents, elegant buildings with lush courtyards full of flowers and plants often concealed to passers-by, the silence, the clean and damp smell, create unforgettable sensations.

Yet Erice is not of medieval origin, it dates back much further, to the 13`" - 12`" century B.C. and to the Elimi civilisations, the same peoples who inhabited Segesta. Little is known of this indigenous population, except that they were strongly influenced by the first Greek colonisers, absorbing much of their culture. And, as if a bridge was wedged between the ancient past and a future with many unknowns, today Erice, with its Centro di cultura scientifica Ettore Majorana, is one of the most prestigious scientific centres where such problems are discussed as nuclear disarmament. There is much more to see and do, and you must certainly taste a piece of Erice, the so called dolci di badia (almond pastries made according to an ancient, simple yet intriguing recipe), or you could take in some Erice colour, which is all around in the colourful rag rugs. Trapani, the capitalof the province, at first sight gives the impression of an anonymous town, but going down 19" century via Fardella intersected by straight roads at right angles - and entering the old town, there is a mixture of Arab to late 18`" century buildings and architectural features. The old town centre is surprisingly small and concentrated, well kept and clean; especially good for shopping is via Torrearsa, with its chic shops. It is through these streets that one of Sicily's most sorrowful Good Friday processions trails, commemorating the Passion of Christ. This meandering procession lasts 24 hours: harrowing prayers and band playing heart rendering music accompany twenty groups of wooden statues decorated in silver dating back to the 17" and 18" century.

The groups represent the Stations of the Cross; each group belongs to a different category (or confraternity) of craftsmen and they bear the statues on their shoulders. Everybody - religious or not - is moved by the slow and solemn gait of the swaying march and astonished silence.

The narrow tongue of land where old Trapani nestles faces two seas: one to the north, stretching as far as the horizon and blending with the sky, and the other to the south, limited by the Egadi islands, appearing to form a lagoon. Between Trapani and Marsala, this lagoon is characterised by the cleverly designed salt works: the still surface of the pools mirrors the sky and creates magical effects, especially at sunset. Further down, the lagoon forms the so called Stagnone, a shallow slimy pond where the Phoenician islet of Mozia roosts. Until recently, this archaelogical pearl belonged to the family of Joseph Whitaker, the British family who started the excavations in the early 20`" century. Once the island became the property of the Sicilian Regional Government, works were taken over by the Archaeological office in Trapani. Marsala and Mazara del Vallo, two rich towns to the south-west, are in contrast to the stereotyped image of poor and backward Sicily. Two monumental city centres, 16" century buildings, churches, convents, all of a Baroque that is both opulent and austere, are an unmistakable sign of Christian domination after having driven the Arabs out from their major settlements.

Marsala's wealth comes from its prestigious wine and famous cellars, many of which were established by English entrepreneurs who moved there in the 18`" century, whilst Mazara, with its rich high-sea fishing fleet, floods the Italian markets with marvellous fish. Thousands of Tunisians and Moroccans have emigrated there (the so called `unhappy comeback' of Arabs to Sicily) in search of work in the fields or at sea.

Marsala's wealth comes from its prestigious wine and famous cellars, many of which were established by English entrepreneurs who moved there in the 18`" century, whilst Mazara, with its rich high-sea fishing fleet, floods the Italian markets with marvellous fish. Thousands of Tunisians and Moroccans have emigrated there (the so called `unhappy comeback' of Arabs to Sicily) in search of work in the fields or at sea. There are plenty of shops and expensive restaurants mainly used by locals, and not aimed at increasing the number of visitors to the area. Baglio Anselmi in Marsala, housing a fascinating Phoenician shipwreck dating back to the 3" century B.C. is enjoyed by tourists, as well as the piazza Municipio in Mazara (don't look at the Town Hall: it is a horrendous modern building). The Valle del Belice, almost destroyed by 1968 earthquake, makes an interesting pathway through the reconstruction work. Partanna, Santa Ninfa, Salaparuta, Gibellina, Montevago, Santa Margherita, the towns hit hardest, have found a new identity, re designing urban spaces. Gibellina stands out for its originality: the village destroyed has been relocated and rebuilt from scratch, in an open air workshop where famous artists and architects have designed open spaces, building and monuments.

The ruins of old Gibellina have been `plastered' by Burri, creating a giant sculpture called the `Cretto', a continual reminder of the tragedy. Here the southern coast faces the African sea; it looks like the ocean, but it is the Mediterranean with its cold currents, icy cold water even in the summertime, wonderful beaches, wild vegetation, cane thickets, pine woods burnt by sea salt.

Here one can visit the archaeological remains of Selinunte, an entire town that you can still walk through, showing signs of its former glory. Then Sciacca, the lively thermal town, with facilities capable of welcoming a large number of tourists, offering archaeology (evidence of the Neolithic age to the early centuries of the Christian age), historical architecture (churches, buildings and castles, from medieval to Baroque), craft (mostly ceramics, with the classical Sicilian motifs) to the phantasmagoria of Carnival, one of the most famous in Italy.

There are many other enchanting places to visit, such as Eraclea Minoa (after seeing the ruins of the old town, going for a dip in the crystal sea that laps at the smooth white rocks, is a must), whilst the extreme southern tip of Sicily stretches towards the sunny Valley of the Temples in Agrigento, one of the most beautiful settings in the world.